“Everything is falling apart”: North Korea shocks even Russian tourists

Russia and North Korea are getting closer. This is not only demonstrated by rocket deliveries from Pyongyang. The first tourists allowed to visit North Korea since the pandemic were from Russia. But a campaign trip leaves vacationers with a bitter aftertaste.

Relations between Moscow and Pyongyang are better than they have been in a long time. The reason is the war in Ukraine. Russia needs munitions for the invasion, and it cannot produce enough. In addition, components are missing due to Western sanctions. North Korea can deliver missiles, including munitions. A strictly isolated and sanctioned country can expect political support and assistance for its own nuclear and satellite programs.

To break new ground, Russian President Vladimir Putin traveled to his country's Far East last September, where he received North Korean dictator Kim Jong Un. Kim received a luxury car from Putin. Meanwhile, Ukrainian cities are being bombarded by rockets from Pyongyang (including Western elements).

However, Putin's comfortable trend should not be limited to military and technological cooperation. An example is the trip of Russian tourists to a neighboring country. Since the attack on Ukraine has made most Russians no longer able to travel to many Western destinations, North Korea wants to go on the offensive and present itself as a tourist dream country.

Nearly 100 Russians, who flew from Vladivostok to Pyongyang on February 9, were the first tourists North Korea allowed into the country since the outbreak, during which it sealed its borders. Before 2020, several thousand tourists, including from Western countries, visited North Korea each year. The Russian travel group was also not looking for rest: the participants included journalists and representatives of the travel industry, as well as bloggers and influencers. But it didn't really work.

“It's Surreal”

According to travel agency Vostok Intour, which organized it, the trip lasted four days. According to the British broadcaster Sky News Tickets cost around 690 euros. “Now the weather is good. It's the best time for winter holidays”, The Russian Embassy wrote Pyongyang welcomed them on Facebook and wished them “good mood and unforgettable memories”. Vacationers actually received them — some reported flying on Air Goryeo, the only North Korean airline. “The plane is old and smells like moths,” Sky News quoted one of the tourists as saying. Others reported technical flaws in the 41-year-old machine. “Everything is falling apart,” it says.

Once in Pyongyang, tourists not only see statues of the state's founder Kim Il-sung and his son Kim Jong Il — a must-see for visitors — but a monument to Juche ideology and a student event with accordion music.

They were accommodated at the Yangkokto International Hotel, but were not allowed to leave the campus on their own. The reason: “You don't speak Korean and can get into trouble like travel blogger Ilya Voskresensky.” Radio Free Asia reportedA broadcaster funded by the US government.

Voskresensky, Der On Instagram Documented his trip, and reports restrictions: On the plane, when they were in Russia, a tourist deleted unpleasant pictures from his cell phone. In the country, construction sites and dilapidated buildings are not allowed to be photographed, only beautiful, scenic views. In addition, you are not allowed to move freely. “We haven't had a chance to talk to ordinary people in North Korea,” he said.

Anyway, there were only a few people and cars on the streets even during rush hour, which shocked him. “Sometimes you look at people and surprisingly they all look the same,” he said, referring to their clothes. he told CNN, it felt “like a trip back in time”. The empty streets also brought to mind the stories of my grandparents from the Soviet Union due to the lack of advertising. “It's surreal.”

A separate sector is planned for Russians

Masikryong Ski Resort, which the group visited after a night in the capital, was apparently better received. Opened in 2014 near Wonsan, east of the peninsula, the resort, one of its kind in the country, was built on Kim Jong Un's instructions to attract tourists from China in particular. Western technology was also used, which was smuggled across barriers.

The tour group was mostly alone, as other tourists did not visit the country and a visit was unaffordable for most North Koreans. But their guards were on their heels: Voskresensky shows a man skiing behind him in a video and writes: “This is our personal companion and not paranoid.” After all, according to him, there are no restrictions on photography and filming here.

It could also be North Korea's plan: under no circumstances should Russian tourists explore the country or meet local people. It would be much better if they stayed in a closed place. Inquiry Portal The Insider It is already planning its own holiday resort for Russian tourists, according to reports, citing the Russian regional authority on the border with North Korea. Pyongyang wants to build 17 hotels, 37 guesthouses, shops and a four-kilometer-long beach on a 2.8-square-kilometer area on the east coast. This is according to the head of the Russian Tourism Agency Euronews Said: “Some people dream of going to North Korea. North Korea is an amazing country.” Russian state television also enthusiastically reported on the travel destination. A holiday there is in the interests of both governments.

“Never seen Korean food”

The results of some of the expedition's participants, on the other hand, were more than mixed. Voskresensky, for example, was not only shocked by the deserted streets, but also repulsed by the ubiquitous propaganda. “It is shocking that the cult of personality has crossed all boundaries,” he said. He also criticized the lack of Korean culture and cuisine. “I don't see Korean food in North Korea,” he said. “I feel they've lost that culture because of years of poverty and 'communist equality'.”

The organization of the trip and the constant care caused bitterness for other participants: “The meticulous preparations for our visit felt like a theatrical performance,” Elena Bychkova told CNN. Amid the dance scenes, I couldn't shake the feeling that there was another side to North Korea.

Yulia Meshkova wrote After the trip: “I wouldn't go there again for moral and ethical reasons,” although she highly praised the ski resort she visited. In another post, he describes North Korea as a “totalitarian dictatorship.” The country has no tourism value. “It's definitely worth the trip. To get your dose of wonder, sympathize with the frightened Koreans and enjoy the contrast with their southern neighbors,” he wrote. On Instagram. Despite a generally pleasant trip, she was personally unwell.